Ponti's, Fox Valley: Why exceptional Italian restaurant may just be north Sheffield’s best-kept secret
Set over two floors, with a prosecco bar, picturesque balcony, intimate al-fresco dining terrace and elegant interiors, this is a restaurant which makes you feel like you’re in for a memorable dining experience from the offset.
Ponti’s Italian Kitchen offers that touch of escapism which can make dining out so fun, with a setting that manages to be both informal and befitting of an occasion which calls for a bit of sartorial glitz and glamour.
The restaurant’s exceptionally friendly and personable General Manager, Argys Myrtja, seems to take a real interest in its patrons, helping Ponti’s to feel like one of those excellent neighbourhood Italian eateries that keep you coming back again and again.
Despite feeling a world away from what you would expect of a restaurant surrounded by retail outlets, Ponti’s is situated in the heart of the Fox Valley shopping complex in the north of the city.
Both Argys and Ponti’s Head Chef Robert Huza have chosen to make Sheffield their home, after what was supposed to be a months-long secondment from Ponti’s other branch in London’s Oxford Circus turned into a Steel City stint of eight years and counting.
Their love of their adopted home shines through, both through the service and the food they offer, and makes Ponti’s feel like a real labour of love.
But what of the food and drink? I’m delighted to say Ponti’s scores highly on both fronts.
When my dining companion and I arrived on a sunny September evening, the restaurant was abuzz, as some groups marked a special occasion and others enjoyed a more low-key dining experience. The spectacle of the open kitchen, at the centre of the restaurant’s ground floor, also adds to the atmosphere.
Ponti’s menu takes inspiration from the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy - home to some of the culinary traditions and specialities that have helped to make the country’s cuisine so enduringly popular - and their food offering reflects that, with a sumptuous selection of antipasti, small plates and pastas to choose from.
To start, I chose the Bruschetta al Pomodoro, which comes with grilled focaccia, datterino tomatoes, garlic and basil and also shared an Antipasto Vegetariano, with generous portions of tomatoes, courgette, pepper, asparagus, bread and olives with my dining companion, both of which are quite simple dishes.
But the beauty of simple dishes is they give you a true indication of the quality of the ingredients; and in both cases the high standard really shone through.
The wide, and generously-sized, range of vegetables included with the antipasti were cooked and seasoned to perfection; and a drizzle of Ponti’s own balsamic vinegar - which is available to buy by the bottle - gave the dish a nice kick. The gorgeous and fresh focaccia combined with the vegetables, which still had a bit of their crunch, made for a nice bite that was pleasing on the palate.
My dining companion, meanwhile, chose the Polpette Piccante, which he described as consisting of crumbly, tender and juicy meatballs in a lightly spiced vibrant tomato sauce, topped with just-melted burrata for the cheese-pulls.
I chose the Risotto alle Zucchini, with carnaroli risotto rice, broad beans, zucchini, mascarpone, pea shoots. It’s another Italian classic, which, as a vegetarian with more limited options, I have fairly often; and yet, Ponti’s still managed to elevate it into something special.
The flavours were deep, decadent and extremely moreish, and it looked fantastic, too.
For his main dish, my dining companion chose the Filleto di Maiale, which he described as being a surprisingly generous pair of very thick-cut pork tenderloin pieces, as tender as you would expect, rolled in crisped pancetta and finished with extra-finely sliced radish. This all with heritage carrots and sweet potato purée and finished with a thyme jus. Really hearty food, but with an expert combination of flavours and served with flair.
By the time the offer of dessert came around we were pretty stuffed, but we managed to make enough room to share a tiramisu, and I’m very glad we did because it proved to be another classic that Ponti’s made their own, with the textural treat of Amaretto biscuits sprinkled on top.
To drink, I enjoyed the utterly delicious Pinot Noir Lo Straniero Emilia-Romagna, which was fruity and richly bodied; and Argys tells me that Ponti’s is the only UK restaurant where you can expect it to be served.
If wine isn’t your thing, Ponti’s also has a wide range of beers, aperitivo, digestivo and cocktails, which includes a Limoncello martini that I’m told is a big hit with punters.
The walls of the restaurant’s staircase are adorned with striking black and white pictures detailing the history of Ponti’s - from when founder Pino Ispani left the Italian village of Rabbini for London in 1957 to the present day.
Similarly, Fox Valley’s own industrial heritage is also documented on another wall of photographs on the restaurant’s first floor corridor.
The service was fantastic, and in addition to providing everything you could want from an Italian restaurant, Ponti’s also has a private dining room, which can seat 60, and regularly hosts events including tribute acts, psychic suppers and wine tastings.
All in all, Ponti’s is such a great establishment that I’m surprised it’s managed to remain such a well-kept secret. I’d definitely recommend treating yourself to a trip there, and passing the secret on to others.