Fargate Sheffield: The rise and fall of famous city street, which is now a 'shadow of its former glory'

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I’m sure that most people would agree that Fargate is now in a very sad state and not what I can remember when I was a child.

It was a thriving, bustling, busy thoroughfare back then. It was a one of the busiest transport arteries through the town centre, with trams, buses and all other modes of motor transport.

Today it’s just a shadow of its former glory but the Fargate I remember was an adventure in itself. I was always told by my dad ‘now keep a tight hold of my hand, Vincent’ as the Saturday shoppers filled the pavement and I could have been lost in the crowd.

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I will touch on the brief history of Fargate. Firstly, it wasn’t the furthest gate from Sheffield castle, that only had one gate in and out. Fargate just meant it was the furthest road from the Castle, gate meaning road.

Fargate, in Sheffield city centre, back in the day (pic: Vin Malone)Fargate, in Sheffield city centre, back in the day (pic: Vin Malone)
Fargate, in Sheffield city centre, back in the day (pic: Vin Malone)
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During an excavation at Carmel House in 2005, a well was discovered which gave hints that Fargate was being used from around the late 11th century, so from then it developed and waned to what we see today.

It originally ran from what is now Church Street up to Cambridge Street and I’m sure the father of W.C Fields frequented the many public houses on Fargate before he left for America.

Fargate hosted 16 public houses in its heyday

Fargate, in Sheffield city centre, back in the day (pic: Vin Malone)Fargate, in Sheffield city centre, back in the day (pic: Vin Malone)
Fargate, in Sheffield city centre, back in the day (pic: Vin Malone)

In its heyday, Fargate hosted 16 public houses.

In the 19th century it was both a business and housing area.

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In 1879, it had around 72 different businesses either fronting Fargate or sharing different chambers, and by 1893, these businesses had swelled to 114.

Fargate, in Sheffield city centre, back in the day (pic: Vin Malone)Fargate, in Sheffield city centre, back in the day (pic: Vin Malone)
Fargate, in Sheffield city centre, back in the day (pic: Vin Malone)

By 1911, the new businesses seemed to have only increased by five to 119, and in 1974 these had shrunk to just 21. The type of some of the trades practised on Fargate gave a very bad smell to the area – bone and horn merchants, rendering rotting meat from the bones etc.

Joseph Woolhouse, in his A Description of the Town of Sheffield, written in 1832 while the cholera was raging in Sheffield, wrote: "In going up Fargate there was houses built on both sides. The Lords House stood a little on the North side of the present Norfolk Row. A very elegant old House, it was enclosed by a Wall in a half Circle and Palisaded.

“The present Duke of Norfolk was born in this house. This I expect is the reason why it was called the Lord's house, he being Lord of the Manor.”

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Fragment of ancient alley still exists in Sheffield city centre

Fargate, in Sheffield city centre, back in the day (pic: Vin Malone)Fargate, in Sheffield city centre, back in the day (pic: Vin Malone)
Fargate, in Sheffield city centre, back in the day (pic: Vin Malone)

The Lords House stood on or close to Pepper Alley, and a fragment of this ancient alley still exists at the side of the Upper Chapel on Norfolk Street.

I’ve seen many changes to Fargate in my lifetime. Some were good and some were mistakes like the underpass at its junction with High Street.

A statue of Queen Victoria stood at Town Hall Square but this was removed for road widening. After she went, a pile of stones were placed there, I seem to recall, then the Goodwin Fountain was created with beautiful flowerbeds around it.

It was OK until litter started getting thrown in and students pouring washing up liquid in it – the few spoilt it for the many.

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For some reason the council seems to be against statues, I mean of the people that made Sheffield great. Every other city I’ve visited has had an abundance of them, but it seems some people just have no pride in our heritage.

Today you can still see hints of the past, on the facade of No 14 Fargate, which was the Bookshop of Mr Thomas Widdison, you can see carved into the stone an open book, a candlestick and a pair of spectacles – surely a warning of trying to read by candlelight.

Fargate, in Sheffield city centre, back in the day (pic: Vin Malone)Fargate, in Sheffield city centre, back in the day (pic: Vin Malone)
Fargate, in Sheffield city centre, back in the day (pic: Vin Malone)

On Carmel House you can see the biblical creation of the world over the upper windows. These fantastic carvings are the work of the Tory family, you just don’t seen things like this on new buildings.

Are hopes for Fargate’s future ‘just a pipe dream’?

Today “another new exciting phase to Fargate is imminent” – sadly not, other people think.

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Shipping containers holding cafes, fast food outlets etc are being introduced but why not get the closed shops opened up again instead of cluttering up what in essence is a pedestrian precinct.

It seems this idea was put on hold as Yorkshire Water had shown concern that the weight of the containers may damage the sewers beneath.

Fargate a sad sight now. Beggars, drug users and alcoholics have really brought it to its knees. My personal point of view is that the rot set in when Cole Brothers relocated to Barkers Pool and Coles Corner was demolished and replaced with a horrible bank building.

I hope to see in the near future Fargate brought back to what some semblance of what it was – a clean, thriving, busy shopping area, which is worth visiting.

I’m sure other townsfolk can relate to what I remember about Fargate, but is my hope just a pipe dream?

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