WAGAMAMA is a Japanese chain that has restaurants in 17 countries across the world - but, crucially perhaps, not in Japan.
Wagamama doesn’t feel very authentic. Wagamama, ultimately, is east Asian in the same way Pizza Hut is Italian. Which is to say, it isn’t.
This is what a foodie might tell you. And they might tell it you with a slight sniff which indicates that, self-evidently therefore, Wagamama is not worth your time.
It would be lovely to say they were wrong. They’re not.
Because Wagamama is also the most over-rated, under-exceptional chain restaurant this side of Strada.
It’s restaurants are clinical, and its food mediocre.
The former won’t bother you, of course, if you’re taking away. The latter, though, will.
We had the chicken katsu curry, the yaki soba and a side of duck gyoza.
The curry tasted like that from a chip shop, which ordinarily is no bad thing but ordinarily you don’t pay £9.40.
The yaki soba, meanwhile, was a chicken, vegetable and noodle dish which would best be described as plain.
The duck - deep-fried dumpling-style parcels - were similarly un-outstanding.
Not that it will make a difference, of course.
Wagamama is due to expand to its 18th country shortly.