TAKEAWAY TEST: TONCO, Union Street Cafe, city centre

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I only wish I had savoured it more.

Pop-up TONCO usually supplies intricate, artisan sandwiches and salads on a Wednesday lunchtime but last week they ventured into pasties.

The layers of butter in the crisp, golden pastry were immediately obvious.

Inside the hot parcel was braised beef – somehow still tender inside – minute cubes of the under-appreciated and distinct celeriac and quince, which gave slivers of sweet flavour throughout.

I wolfed the whole thing (£5) down in mere minutes and thought about going back for a second.