AN INDIAN can’t always be considered a high-class meal – but while some takeaways pride themselves on offering the basics cheaply, others aim for something a little more classy.
The ornate logo and refined typefaces on Prithiraj’s menu accompany boasts of ‘premier Indian cuisine’, while the list of special dishes almost outweighs the regular offerings.
So we know they consider themselves a cut above.
An approving restaurant review of Prithiraj, which has just opened on Ecclesall Road, graced these pages a few weeks back.
But a good Indian restaurant doesn’t necessarily make for a good takeaway. So we decided to give it a whirl, choosing for starters onion bhajis and aloo chops.
The bhajis were crisp and glistening, fresh from the frier, while the aloo chops were on the more traditional potato croquet end of the scale – not unpleasant, but they do seem nicer with a less breadcrumb-y coating.
For the mains, we first shared the Handi Lamb, which was a moderately spicy dish, consisting of generous chunks of lamb in a rich, garlic and ginger sauce.
Meanwhile the Raj Special was slightly hotter, and contained a variety of different meats – lamb and chicken tikka, and slices of tandoori chicken off the bone – with a less distinguished sauce.
A side dish of sag paneer proved to be a good choice, featuring large pieces of cheese on a thick bed of spinach.
The egg rice was passable, with the egg itself looking slightly greyer than it probably should have, while a cheese and garlic naan was a success on the garlic front, but the cheese was curiously absent.
Prithiraj will certainly be competition for the nearby Ashoka, just a few doors away on Ecclesall Road, which serves takeaways but doesn’t deliver – and while it’s not quite the pinnacle of excellence yet, it’s definitely a cut above.
Venue: Prithiraj, 407 Ecclesall Road, Sheffield, S11 8PG
Tel: 0114 2666002/3
Opening hours: Sunday to Thursday, 5.30pm to 11.30pm, Friday and Saturday, 5.30pm to 12.30am
Delivery time: Around an hour on busy nights
Menu: A wide selection
What we had: Onion bhajis (£2.10), aloo chops (£2.10), Handi lamb (£7.50), Raj special (£7.50), Sag paneer (£4.90), Egg rice (£2.60), cheese and garlic naan (£2.20)
Verdict: It’s ‘premier Indian cuisine’ indeed.