TAKEAWAY TEST: Gulshan Balti House, 50 The Wicker, Sheffield. Tel: 0114 275 8589.

Gulshan Balti House,The Wicker
Gulshan Balti House,The Wicker
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SO, here’s the most pertinent point about Gulshan Balti House right now: it’s the only take-away menu in your reviewer’s home.

And that’s why we’re reviewing it.

Sure Giles Coren probably wouldn’t use such utilitarian (ie: slap-dash) methods to pick the restaurants he writes about in The Times, but he’s not here.

And, even if he was, he’d be the second best writer in the room (ahem) so he’d get told what my dad use to tell me: that is to sit down, shut up and either eat what’s put in front of him or get the kettle boiling to make himself a pot noodle.

And if he did choose the latter option, that offer would be quickly withdrawn too.

Eat the curry, lad. It’s good for thee.

Well...yeah, that’s debatable, of course, but where Gulshan is concerned it’s good for the taste buds – and that’s not up for doubt.

We started with a meat samosa, which was a little heavy on the pastry and light on the meat, but the onion bhaji was delicately cooked, infused with subtleties and it crumbled to the touch. Good.

Then it was on to the mains – lamb karahis (off the bone) all round with chapatis, rice and the remaining poppadoms.

The sauce might not have looked much – a kind of grey lumpy gruel – but since when do you get a takeaway and worry about presentation? This is food served in newspaper and tinfoil tubs, right?

Taste is the thing – and it certainly was tasty.

That grey gruel was multi-coloured on the tongue, its mix of spice, veg and some seriously tender meat cuts exploding into a riot of hot flavour.

We’ve had a few more menus posted through the door since – but we’ll still be going back to Gulshan again.

Gulshan Balti House, 50 The Wicker, Sheffield.

Tel: 0114 275 8589.

Open: 5pm until late, Monday to Sunday.

Service: Friendly and attentive.

Range of menu: Extensive, including the obligatory mushroom omelette.

Cost: Two starters, two mains and poppadoms delivered - £18.50

Verdict: Spot on. Do it.