Doncaster restaurant is dished up a rave review by top food critic

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Doncaster's Clam & Cork restaurant has hit the spot with celeb and well-known reviewer Jay Rayner.

The celeb recently visited the eatery, based in the heart of the town's market, which he described as: "A small seafood café doing lovely things.

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In a review featured in national newspaper The Guardian he said: "Walking through Doncaster’s market, even on a quiet day when most of the big-knicker stands are shuttered, brings a sweet reminder of their joys; the sense that around the next corner might well be something you didn’t know you absolutely needed. In the section of the covered market dedicated to fish, that something is Clam & Cork, a small seafood café doing lovely things with the catch that arrives here daily, mostly from Grimsby a few miles due east.

It occupies a former wet fish stand, tucked in among many others. A stainless-steel counter has been attached to the entire rim. Pull up a bar stool. Have just a couple of shucked oysters if you like, or perhaps a little more. The sloping displays which once will have been filled with fish on ice, are now filled with bottles of prosecco on ice, alongside sturdy white wines at £16 a bottle. There is a short menu of small and big plates, supplemented by daily specials. It belongs to local chef and businessman Michael Price, who also runs a supper club in the city.

"With a venture like this, location is everything. If a wet fish stand in one of Brixton’s covered markets turned from selling seafood full time to cooking it, the least you’d get is a bit of championship standard eye-rolling. It would probably turn into a shouty row about the bloody middle classes coming in here with their hoity-toity bouillabaisse recipes. The moaning would be interminable. It would be justified, but interminable.

"In Doncaster, it’s still a kind of gentrification, but it has to be welcome – even if its fondest cheerleaders will vouch that Donnie is hardly overrun with great eating options, especially ones offering this level of value.

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"The service is cheery, when it makes sense for it to happen; most of the time dishes just get handed straight out of the kitchen to the diner by the nearest chef. Otherwise our Slovakian waitress, who tells us she’s here in Doncaster “because life happened”, does the heavy lifting. Right now, it is open only until 4pm, unless the horses are running over at Doncaster Races and then it closes at 8pm. But don’t spend your money on the gee-gees. Spend it on lunch at the Clam & Cork. You’ll thank both me, and them."

* Clam & Cork, 2 Fish Market, Doncaster DN1 1NJ (07912 687581). All dishes £6.50-£11.95. Wines from £16.

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