Review: Happy staff and hearty food make pub homely

Wall after wall is adorned with silver cutlery - a celebration of Sheffield’s industrial heritage which works in harmony with the stone-built pub’s rustic beams and log fires.

When we visited on a Wednesday the gastropub was already packed - probably due to the deal of three courses at £22 each with a bottle of wine.

Starter dishes on the offer menu included breaded brie; a large triangle of cheese in a sturdy deep fried coating. This can often be disappointingly greasy but not here. A decent offering of smoky tomato and apple chutney was welcome.

Bury black pudding potato cake sounded like a strange combination, with poached egg, spinach and whisky hollandaise, but actually worked wonderfully.

There was lots of runny egg yolk to go with the crispy potato cake.

As a vegetarian it can be difficult to find a pub with good choice, but here there was plenty. They say you can judge many a place by its chips, so I went for those with battered halloumi.

This side did not let me down, as they were full of flavour and well presented in a cute bowl. The classic combination of king prawn, crab and chorizo linguine had sweetness from the fish, smoky garlic and a chilli kick - although the chorizo was too well done in places, tasting burned.

A roasted winter vegetable tart stuffed with butternut squash, beetroot and Cropwell Bishop custard as well as a stilton and walnut crumb was lonely - with no salad or vegetables. Julia was understandably disappointed - but ended up being unable to finish the hearty winter dish. Still, a puree or sauce would be welcome.

Desserts - a not too sickly warm Belgian chocolate brownie was improved by tasty bourbon vanilla ice cream, and the ever so slightly healthier strawberries came with creamy, frozen yoghurt streaked with honey and decorated with shards of spun sugar, then a thick, sticky rhubarb and rose curd. The light and fresh dish was the star of the meal.

Assistant manager Danny Grove said the key to their customer service was a happy team - and we couldn’t argue with that. Everyone was attentive and smiling despite the crowds. Even the spider that fell in Julia’s bag, as Danny tried to catch it, seemed pretty happy.

Although this pub is a Vintage Inns outlet you wouldn’t guess - any branding is discreet, and you feel at home.

At £57 for three, we will return.

Star rating our of five:

Mossbrook Inn , Sheffield Road, Eckington

Food: 4

Service: 5

Atmosphere: 4

Value: 5

Three more to choose from:

The Cross Scythes, Totley
The Prince of Wales, Eccleshall Road

Scotsman’s Pack, Hathersage