Going stateside for culture and history

WATER gushed down a spectacular narrow gorge, flanked by rocky cliffs, deep in the forest.

The scene might sound familiar to anyone who has explored parts of the Peak District - but this was on a much grander scale and several thousand miles away.

Flume Gorge, near the north eastern USA's highest peak, Mount Washington, in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, was among many of New England's gems, which I experienced during a week-long tour of the region.

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The starting point for the trip was Boston - bustling and lively but not overwhelming and compact-enough to walk around. It's a city of contrasts - the historic harbour and old town lie in the shadow of the gleaming tower blocks of the financial quarter, behind which are the elegant tree-lined boulevards of the Back Bay.

One of the best places to take it all in is a public viewing area at the top of one of Boston's tallest buildings, the 52-storey Prudential Tower, which lies at the south end of the city centre above a shopping mall.

From here, the panoramic view encompasses not just the city but neighbouring Cambridge - home of Harvard University - along with the coast and endless forest-covered hills stretching west.

To discover the history of the city, a coach tour is a good idea. There are numerous ones on offer - including Duck Tours, where people board bizarre-looking vehicles in the shape of boats but with lights and numberplates. These can travel on roads or in the water.

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Our tour was provided by the holiday company, with personal guide Dave Brown, who accompanied us throughout the trip around the region.

His anecdotes included tales about the War of Independence - launched in the old town - grisly hangings and how the golden dome of the Massachusetts State House was painted grey in World War Two, as a disguise from German bombers.

We then went walkabout on the Freedom Trail - which is a couple of miles long.

This path – marked by a red line through the streets - takes you through the narrow, winding roads of the old town.

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We passed the Old State House, where the declaration of independence was made, then the oldest house in Boston – home to revolutionary Paul Revere, whose statue is also on the trail. Just off route are the lively Italian and Irish quarters; home to more restaurants and pubs.

Thirty miles down the interstate was more history at Plymouth; the first settlement established by English pilgrims from the Mayflower.

Just outside the town lies Plimoth Plantation museum – spelt in 'Olde English' – where I was taken back to the 17th Century; experiencing recreations of the settlers' and natives' settlements.

Descendants of the Wampanoag tribe, who lived in New England for 12,000 years, demonstrated crafts and skills - such as hollowing tree trunks to make canoes using fire.

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In real-life Plymouth, original wooden houses and thatched roofs have been replaced with painted clapboard buildings.

But I could not escape the area's past. Moored in the harbour was a recreation of the pilgrims’ ship, the Mayflower – Mayflower II – built in the 1950s for a re-enactment of the settlers’ journey across the Atlantic.

A day of good weather saw us take a boat trip to Martha’s Vineyard, off Cape Cod.

This idyllic-looking island is home to pretty villages, with brightly-painted wooden houses, along with beaches, woodland and marshes. A favourite holiday resort for the rich and famous, including former president Bill Clinton and his family, Martha’s Vineyard was also the setting for Steven Spielberg’s 1970s movie Jaws.

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Back on the road, we headed north to the White Mountains of New Hampshire.

On the way, we stopped at a settlement created by religious order, the Shakers, in the 18th century - tucked away in the rolling hills but well-worth a visit.

Most famous for their sturdy and simply-designed furniture, Shakers were also innovative with technology; designing the first automatic washing machine - powered by horses and, later, steam.

Their doctrine sounded like heaven to begin with, if you were a man - as the women did the cooking, cleaning and washing.

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But, there was a catch… no sex and men and women had to live apart, while families were broken up.

The sect could only survive by attracting new members and it has now almost died out.

New Hampshire is full of lush forests. In the Autumn, leaves turn to a picturesque array of red, brown and orange.

We stayed at a small village called Lincoln, deep in the countryside.

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The view from our resort, of mist rising from mountains, was spectacular.

It was just a stone’s throw from Flume Gorge, which we experienced on our penultimate morning.

The area’s market town, Conway, is home to a tourist railway from which you can normally admire Mount Washington.

Sadly, our view was obscured by low cloud.

My trip was an excellent introduction to New England - I only wish it could have lasted a bit longer. And the region - with its mix of scenery, culture and history - is enough to challenge anyone who might have a preconception that America is simply big, bold and brash.