TOP TIPPLE: Co-op Premium Valpolicella Ripasso 2009 (Co-op, £5.99 from £7.99)

Co-op Ripasso valpolicella
Co-op Ripasso valpolicella
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IF you like your reds big and meaty this one is for you.

Like a 1970s Italian waiter with tight trousers and chest hair peeping through his unbuttoned shirt, it has power but lacks a little subtlety.

It’s fantastic with pasta and strong cheese but needs some big flavours to match its earthy magic. Sipped on its own, after food, that raw grape and tannin kick can be, like the waiter, a little overpowering.

At £5.99 though you’re getting a lot of flavour for your money – tight trousers or not.