The Inn at Troway, Snowden Lane, Troway

CHOOSE a nice sunny day at the new Inn at Troway and you can guarantee to be gobsmacked twice.

First by the view from the terrace or conservatory of the green fields and wooded hills rolling mistily away into Derbyshire.

The second is by the food which stirs a culinary national pride on even the most jaded of palates worn down by years of pizza, pasta, chicken tikka masala and sweet and sour pork.

They're banned here.

Many chefs swear by local and British ingredients. Others 'recreate' British classics. Few, like Richard Smith, can fill an entire menu which makes you want to stomp through the dining rooms singing Rule Britannia.

Where do you start? Here are home made pork scratchings and parsnip crisps, cockles in vinegar, London Particular and cullen skink soups, jellied ham hock with piccalilli and Yorkshire pudding with stump and onion gravy.

Then, cor blimey guv, there's boiled beef and carrots, hotpot, Cornish pasty, haddock and chips, plate pie, Kentish pudding, fish finger butties for grown-ups, ploughman's, potted shrimps and syllabub.

And ee bah gum, not forgetting Barnsley chop, black pudding, oatcakes and Sheffield fishcake. And Henderson's.

The Inn at Troway is the new, politically correct and irritatingly twee name for the old Black-a-Moor run by BrewKitchen, the Sheffield-based gastro-pub company which has already revived the Cricket at Totley.

Richard and his wife Victoria are one half of the foursome in control (the others are millionaire industrialist Jim Harrison and sauce man Simon Webster) and the driving force on food.

Richard first got the right formula at the couple's Thyme Cafe, tweaked it for the Cricket (which sold over 60,000 meals in its first year just ended), and tweaked it again for The Inn.

It's a simple but deceptive formula. Give the public well cooked uncomplicated food in large Yorkshire-friendly portions at a decent price and they'll come back.

This is undoubtedly the aspiration of most chefs but he's got the right team, under head chef Michael Kulczak to carry it out.

Not everything is right. Those wicker chairs in the conservatory dig into the thighs of short-legged customers. Other areas, dubbed the Parlour or the Sitting Room, look more comfy with sofas.

You order at the bar and with 140 covers that can be a pinch point with delays.

A customer spotted me and asked for a progress report on my meal. And I did on his.

More on next page. "We got our starters and mains together but when it's so good you can't complain, can you?" he said.

It was utter greed which made me have the pork scratchings (2), 100 per cent pure fat and skin with a jug of velvety apple sauce.

It was research which beckoned me to the London Particular (4.50) a split pea and ham soup as dense as a London fog and with so much tender shredded ham hock I thought the pig had fallen in and drowned.

Potted shrimps (7.50) were a bit pricey and really deserved triangles of brown bread and butter instead of the toasted muffin but they were those juicy little brown ones in a buttery sauce with a hint of spice.

The boiled salt beef (9) was divine. Brisket is salted for five days, bathed then braised to extreme tenderness. They leave the fat on. Very important.

The thin liquor is delicious and so are the aromatics, carrots, onion and leeks. It comes with a couple of herby dumplings which I would swap for a dollop of mash.

Whitby crabcakes (12) with a celeriac and fennel coleslaw were almost 100 per cent crustacean (very little potato) but aren't these New England rather than Old English?

Sweets are super.

They're going to have a lot of fun going through the British dessert card but meanwhile try the ultra-light curd tart (5.50) which doesn't stick to your clack and a decent little lemon syllabub (5).

"There's nothing wrong with pesto or Thai fish cakes but not here. We are proud to offer regional British food – the repertoire is endless," says Richard.

And did I mention the liver and onions, omelette Arnold Bennett, colcannon and pan haggerty?

The Inn is also a brewery tap for Jim's Thornbridge Brewery so there's Jaipur and Lord Marples on the pumps.

It cost 46 for food. Gradely.

THE INN AT TROWAY

Snowden Lane, Troway, Sheffield.

Tel: 01246 290 751.

Open seven days. Credit cards. Disabled access. Large car park. Website: www.troway.co.uk

My star ratings (out of five):

Food 5

Atmosphere 5

Service 3

Value 5

Gastro-pub category. Do not compare ratings between places of different style or price.