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The Car People

Milestone, 84 Green Lane, Kelham Island, Sheffield

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Published Date:
07 February 2007
Milestone, Kelham gastropub
AT first glance it looks like another of those hopeful boozers around Sheffield's Kelham Island and, indeed, you'll pass a couple of them on your way to the new Milestone gastropub.
Formerly the old Ball Inn, established 1833, it has languished empty and half-wrecked for years on the corner of Green Lane and Ball Street.
Not any more. There's a real buzz at this place which two former All Bar One bosses Matt Bigland and Miles Gould have steered back into life with a £500,000 facelift.
Downstairs, behind the green painted pub front, it's all wooden floors and tables, an alcove or two and an animated atmosphere.
Many of the patrons, young professionals from the surrounding apartments, have suddenly found the Milestone on their doorstep and probably can't believe their luck.
They are eating from an ambitious round the world menu which includes jerk chicken, Moroccan lamb and Malaysian chicken curry.
Upstairs, past an open kitchen, you'll find a smart little dining room with white painted walls, wooden floor and beams across the ceiling.
There isn't that much of a view, except for more apartments, but it's what you see on the dishes that counts.
Head chef Shaun Hopes, a quiet, small, diffident looking guy with an impressive CV (Marco Pierre White, Gordon Ramsay, Raymond Blanc, Charlie Trotter) is running the kitchen.
Service might be a little slow - we were dining at the end of the first week - but he can cook like a dream.
You could see that from the breads, gleaming little rolls flavoured with cheese and olive and basil, the crust crisp, the crumb moist and full of flavour.
And that's the key word to describe the food: flavour-driven.
Take the terrine of ham hock, black pudding and home smoked chicken (£6.50). The smokiness of the chicken contrasted with the sweetness of the ham and the black pudding's earthiness.
Our other starter, tortellinis (£6.50) made from beautifully taut pasta with an intensely flavoured goats cheese, basil and tomato filling, was equally classy. The rich white wine sauce, flavoured with shallot and pancetta, just called for another of those rolls to mop things up.
Incidentally, I'm giving the listed prices here. The computerised till erred a couple of quid in our favour.
My main course, a trio of lamb (£15), was far too generous, a veritable meat feast. There was a miniature shepherds pie, which could have been a little richer, some well-judged rump and a loin chop wrapped in a silky basil mousse. With the dish was a super cheesy dauphinoise and some equally good Provencal vegetables.
Quite a few of the meat dishes had these tricksy presentations: beef fillet with oxtail cottage pie, pork cutlets with braised belly pork and chicken breast with a ballontine of the leg.
A fillet of sea bass marinated in lime and ginger (again you really got the flavours) was served alongside a single head of steamed bok choy in a delicious coconut and saffron broth (£12). She got some of my vegetables.
A trio of passionfruit desserts - a creme brulée, pavlova and mousse - fairly zinged with the fruit. A slightly stiff pannacotta flavoured with tequila and lime (with mint leaves in a jellied top) was equally impressive. Both £4.50.
The bill we got, with a couple of glasses of wine, was £61.20.
The Milestone, named because it is a milestone in the life of Matt and Miles, is a terrific place for food and atmosphere with a proper city restaurant feel. Go soon.

My ratings
Milestone, 84 Green Lane, Kelham Island.
Tel: 0114 272 8327.
Open daily 11am-11pm (restaurant 5-10pm). Sunday lunches. No smoking. Credit cards. Street parking (no meters).
My ratings (out of five):
Food 5
Atmosphere 5
Service 4
Value 5

Gastropub / middle market category. Do not compare ratings between places of different style or price.

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  • Last Updated: 08 February 2007 7:50 AM
  • Source: n/a
  • Location: Sheffield
 
 

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