The average life of a restaurant is three years: the first is full of optimism, the second the reality sinks in and the third year is make or break.

Of course, a lot don't even get this far but we're very glad to see Ranulphs, a Beauchief bistro no bigger than most people's front rooms, has come through.

It is just over three years since we last paid a visit to the place owned and run by chef Herrandre Jivan.

Robert Eggo, still cooking in a basement in Dronfield, had it before and built up its reputation as a place you could rely on for a good, tasty dinner.

Jaff, as he is known, continues this tradition. There is now a printed menu which changes frequently with a half dozen specials on the menu which enables him to make the most of what he finds in the market.

What's more, he's open from 9am to offer breakfast through to lunch, and a couple of tables and chairs outside signal his intent.

On our night there's just us and a table of four women but then the place only holds 26 and at least Jaff doesn't have to turn the music up loud to hide the sound of the upstairs flat TV as he did last time – it's empty.

He's had a revamp and the little room is hung with paintings by a local father and daughter which you can buy if you like them.

Jaff, who once worked at a place called Fernando's (so you might call this Herrandre's Hideaway) is an easy-going chef. There's nothing complex about his dishes but you do get bags of flavour.

Prices can look a little minty here and there – a fishcake is £6.25 – but you can balance this against the bistro's BYO policy. Corkage is just £1.50.

That fishcake is pleasing but just too expensive. I've also gone for fish as a starter, three decent grilled sardines (£4.95) with lemon and garlic.

Other offerings include warm figs topped with Brie, a mushroom risotto and a chicken satay.

Jaff's background is Bolton Indian and when he first moved in the neighbours thought he might be turning the bistro into a balti house. Far from it. There are spices but only in moderation.

Our meal really kicks off with the main courses. My wife has gone for sea bass in Thai sauce (£13.45). The fish is well-flavoured and the sauce spicy without being overpowering.

My pork loin (£13.75) is even better. There's a lot of it for the money and it looks as if a whole loin has been roasted off then cut into medallions and assembled into a tower.

It's incredibly juicy and tender and by far the best flavoured pork I've had for ages, even though I don't quite get around to finishing it all.

This is one of those places where customers get a side dish of vegetables.

Other mains included duck breast with a mango salsa, grilled whole plaice, roast lamb with a mint jus and a steak.

If there's one reason you should visit Ranulphs it's the desserts. In Sheffield we already have the Pudding Ladies, and Beauchief has the Pudding Man in Jaff. It's his forte and he likes to be inventive.

Last time round we enjoyed his lemon risotto cake, making the best of leftover rice.

You really have to taste his coffee cake with Marsala which has a texture very reminiscent of a bread pudding, which, in essence, it is.

And he does a lovely spin on Bakewell tart with halved plums replacing the jam. Both cost £4.65.

Ranulphs is laid-back, homely and tasty and well worth a visit. We paid £47.50 for food. Coffees and corkage took the bill to £52.75.

RANULPH'S
2 Hutcliffe Wood Road, Beauchief, Sheffield.
Tel: 0114 249 1055.
Open Wed-Sat for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Corkage £1.50. Cash and cheques only. Street parking.
My star ratings (out of five):
Food ****
Atmosphere ***
Service ****
Value ****
Bistro category. Do not compare ratings between places of different style or price.


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