First by the view from the terrace or conservatory of the green fields and wooded hills rolling mistily away into Derbyshire.

The second is by the food which stirs a culinary national pride on even the most jaded of palates worn down by years of pizza, pasta, chicken tikka masala and sweet and sour pork.

They're banned here.

Many chefs swear by local and British ingredients. Others 'recreate' British classics. Few, like Richard Smith, can fill an entire menu which makes you want to stomp through the dining rooms singing Rule Britannia.

Where do you start? Here are home made pork scratchings and parsnip crisps, cockles in vinegar, London Particular and cullen skink soups, jellied ham hock with piccalilli and Yorkshire pudding with stump and onion gravy.

Then, cor blimey guv, there's boiled beef and carrots, hotpot, Cornish pasty, haddock and chips, plate pie, Kentish pudding, fish finger butties for grown-ups, ploughman's, potted shrimps and syllabub.

And ee bah gum, not forgetting Barnsley chop, black pudding, oatcakes and Sheffield fishcake. And Henderson's.

The Inn at Troway is the new, politically correct and irritatingly twee name for the old Black-a-Moor run by BrewKitchen, the Sheffield-based gastro-pub company which has already revived the Cricket at Totley.

Richard and his wife Victoria are one half of the foursome in control (the others are millionaire industrialist Jim Harrison and sauce man Simon Webster) and the driving force on food.

Richard first got the right formula at the couple's Thyme Cafe, tweaked it for the Cricket (which sold over 60,000 meals in its first year just ended), and tweaked it again for The Inn.

It's a simple but deceptive formula. Give the public well cooked uncomplicated food in large Yorkshire-friendly portions at a decent price and they'll come back.

This is undoubtedly the aspiration of most chefs but he's got the right team, under head chef Michael Kulczak to carry it out.

Not everything is right. Those wicker chairs in the conservatory dig into the thighs of short-legged customers. Other areas, dubbed the Parlour or the Sitting Room, look more comfy with sofas.

You order at the bar and with 140 covers that can be a pinch point with delays.

A customer spotted me and asked for a progress report on my meal. And I did on his.
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