"It always does that until it gets to 12, then it doesn't strike at all," says landlord Nick Smith, pulling a pint of Black Sheep.

It's an improvement. Last time we came here five years ago it didn't work at all.

Besides cantankerous clocks, little else seems to have changed at the Eyre Arms. Nick and his wife Lynne, who shares cooking duties with chef Mark Nadin and their son Sam, have been there now for 15 years.

There are still many of the same dishes we saw back in 2003 and on visits before that, like Derbyshire oatcakes, Derbyshire Pie and venison pie. "If we take something off people say that's their favourite," says Lynne.

We are here for Sunday lunch ("We don't hold tables later that 12.30pm," advises Nick on the phone) and shortly after that the place fills up magically.

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Like a lot of country pubs without much of a hinterland – there's hardly a house in Hassop – the Eyre Arms survives on its picture postcard looks and its food.

It has featured on many a postcard and, if pubs are female, is also a calendar girl.

The 17th century former farmhouse and coaching inn is famous for its Boston ivy (although the Smiths would welcome help from botanists for positive identification) which surrounds the pub like a blanket.

It's pretty enough through spring and summer but turns really spectacular in the autumn when it goes a fiery red.

The Eyre Arms is a free house although it says John Smith's on the sign. Don't be put off. "We haven't sold that for 12 months and having Black Sheep has made a big difference," says Nick, who with son Sam makes forays from behind the bar to clear the tables in the pub's two rooms.

If you want atmosphere, the Eyre Arms has got it in spades. We sit on a wooden settle next to the log burning fire, underneath a wise old owl. Although perhaps it wasn't that wise as it's stuffed.

For ghosts, check out the web site, but they do say a spectral cavalier roams the place.

A word of advice to anyone thinking of eating here. Save some space for dessert because they really are special, a cut or two above what you normally find in a pub. That said, the Eyre Arms is no gastro-pub. The food is straight forward but none the worse for that.

We get off to a slightly shaky start because I think my Derbyshire oatcakes (£5.10)with a filling of Cheddar and asparagus, are a little bit soggy. But there are no complaints about my wife's fanned avocado with prawns (£5.40).

As it's Sunday lunch there are quite a few orders for roast topside of beef (£8.95), including mine. There isn't a spare inch of space left on the plate.

It's so good I eat every morsel, even though I'm supposed to be on a diet.