Generations who would always sit down for any meal have given way to those who graze microwaved dinners while sitting on a sofa in front of the telly.

It has a knock on effect. When we went for a new tablecloth at a Sheffield department store and were surprised at the lack of choice an assistant said: "We don't have much call for them these days."

But you can't do without a table in a restaurant. Table Table, on Attercliffe Common, has around 60 of them in different shapes and sizes, not counting the ones in the beer garden, and can seat up to 300.

Table Table, so good they named it twice?

This is the old Brewer's Fayre (and before that Brewsters) given a makeover by owners Whitbread.

So far it has converted just over 100 of them into Table Tables (the staff at Sheffield are pleased they made the first tranche) but big companies like Whitbread don't spend money on revamps for the sake of it.

While profits on brands like budget hotels Premier Inns and Costa coffee shops (which recently opened its 700th outlet) have risen nicely, its pub restaurants have not been doing so well.

In fact, pub sales have fallen by 14 per cent to just over £446 million.

Table Table's unique selling point is that it has different kinds of tables in differently decorated rooms or spaces so, hopefully, there's one to suit your mood or your party.

It's aimed, notionally, at a professional couple called Darren and Elaine, aged 25 to 35, perhaps with family in tow.

"Discover your space," a sign urges in the foyer so we walk through the bar into a network of nooks and crannies, anterooms and side rooms, some with fireplaces, others with wooden logs and so on.

"I felt it got more grown up as we walked through," says Elaine, sorry, my wife as we find a nice little table for two. Leading off is another room with a family in full flow.

You've found your table, now you can choose your style of service: order at the bar or be waited upon.

To start with we got a girl so dizzy it would have been quicker to make a trip to the bar. She obviously didn't think it part of her job to read the menu, which all seemed to be a big surprise to her. We had to remind her that seven minutes previously she'd taken our drinks order. Service bucked up when others took over.

Table Table's menu has largely been cooked elsewhere and is reheated in one of those magic ovens – although presumably not the burgers and steaks – but they don't pretend otherwise.

And it makes a nod or two in the direction of gastro-pub food. Some of it isn't bad. Some of it is.

We began with what most people order, if they don't opt for crispy duck parcels or prawn cocktail, a combo feast platter (£6.99), full of old favourites like potato wedges, chicken goujons, onion rings and tortilla chips with dips.

I pick up what I think is a breaded scampi but is in fact a small nuclear bomb.
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