It's rather a large and loud clock with Westminster chimes – on the hour, the quarter, the half and the three-quarter.

Bong!

"I think I might change it so it just rings the hour," says owner Tony Jackson.

He might just.

Tony and the clock arrived last summer when he took over the little bistro which had been run in a modern British way by chefs Stephen Hall and Andy Robertson.

Chefs have notoriously itchy feet, even when they run their own restaurants, and when it came on the market Tony went for it.

Like a lot of people Tony has always dreamed of having his own restaurant. He's a nurse for people with special needs by day but knew the hospitality trade as a bar manager for a local casino.

"I told my partner if we didn't do it now we never will," says Tony, who has just become a dad again at 47.

Tony is not a chef. He's strictly front of house but has kept on Tim Challis, in the kitchen, as well as the name.

The menu is not as pacy as it was before but if you like you food without frills or fol-de-rols and a touch retro then Seasons II should suit you fine.

Tony is a lovely fellow and he's decked the tables out with black over white napery and nice big wine glasses and the whole place has a contemporary feel.

We start with complimentary olives and oil, an offer now going out of fashion.

Starters include smoked salmon with caviar, an onion and goats cheese tartlet, a salad Caprese and, for me, pan-fried duck breast with an orange salad.

It was a bouncy, juicy little number which I enjoyed. There was enough for a main course but then the price was £6.95.

The menu also promised fresh mussels in a wine and cream sauce (£5.50) but this was an odd way to describe frozen green-lipped New Zealand mussels on the half shell.

Bong! It's time for the mains. There's lamb shank, more duck – slow roasted and quickly sautéd breast and leg (that should probably be the other way around), a steak on the specials board and my whole sea bream (£13.95).

It was a nice piece of grilled fish precisely cooked and very enjoyable, served with plain boiled and steamed vegetables, but it cried out for a sauce.

My wife's chicken breast (£11.95) did have one – creamed leek and mushrooms. People with gluten intolerances will get modified sauces.

We had the restaurant to ourselves on our night – although there had been some early diners. But Tony, who has great people skills, kept us entertained.

Sweets are recited. They are not as good as the preceding courses, a taste-free cheesecake and not so bad home made profiteroles, at £4.50 each.

After some decent coffee (a cafetiere is £5) it was time for the bill.

Bong!

We paid £64.10. That included a pleasant Chilean sauvignon blanc at £11.75.

Seasons makes a great little unpretentious neighbourhood restaurant but prices could easily be shaved buy a quid or so at each course, including the coffee.

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