Mrs Food and Drink is looking rather smug at present because, courtesy of new Sheffield restaurant Mish Mash, she got there first.

It was chalked up over the bar as a special - difficult to see in this corridor of a restaurant unless you get up from your seat to have a look.

"What is it?" she asked.

"It's an ugly blighter," I said but she's used to one already.

Mish Mash is the latest arrival on bustling Ecclesall Road (it was a dress shop) where, according to its menu, "virtually all our produce is sourced from Sharrow Vale." Perhaps they mean the Henderson's on the tables.

What do you think? Post your comments below.

Now she can feel even smugger. It was a Sharrow Vale gurnard.

The restaurant is owned and run by Sam Cole and Justin Shore, who founded Utopia at West One, the coffee bar with aquarium tables and short-lived fish.

I worry the name could make it a hostage to fortune from sarky restaurant critics who make jokes about a mish mash of styles.

So I won't, except to note that the starter menu can unblushingly offer hand dived scallops with pork for a stonking tenner (although Justin says it's popular) at the same time as a couple of mini party-bite onion bhajis for more than an Indian restaurant dare charge.

Mish Mash has a brightly painted window with a pleasing display of beer bottles, some of them local, and I certainly took the hint.

It was full and very lively on our Friday night and I loved the laid-back service and atmosphere.

By the door is a section papered with enthusiastic customer reviews. One wall the length of the 32-seater dining room is covered by giant coloured photos of Stanage Edge and the Derbyshire countryside. It ends, bizarrely, with pictures of Audrey Hepburn.

Mish Mash, with its chunky wooden tables, wooden floor and bottles of Henderson's Relish, calls itself a Kitchen, Cafe and Bar on its shopfront. It is an upmarket daytime cafe which turns into a trendy brasserie style diner at night.

Main courses run from rack of Derbyshire lamb to autumnal butternut squash and chestnut tart tatin and a net full of fish: Sharrow Vale halibut bourguinon, fried sea trout and that gurnard.

Mish Mash has a reputation for being a tad pricy and since we paid £25 a head for food with no bread, amusés or petit fours I'd say there was something in that.

My Thornbridge Jaipur IPA perfectly matched the onion bhajis, partnered with a lovely little tomato salsa for £4, but they were so small!

It is difficult to be positive about my wife's goats cheese and beetroot tartlet (£4.95).

It looked like it didn't want to be there and hadn't bothered to dress. Consider a case of tough and scorched pastry filled with slices of roast beetroot and topped with slices of blue grey cheese.

That was it. The cheese was just warm, not bubbling, and the two ingredients were naked and unadorned. It wouldn't have scraped a pass mark on the chefs' course at Castle College.

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