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The Car People

Cubana, 34 Trippet Lane, Sheffield

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Published Date:
10 January 2007
IT is not often you hear the words disc jockey and home made cakes in the same sentence but you do at Cubana, that lively Cuban-style bar and restaurant on Sheffield's Trippett Lane.
Mark Jones DJs on Saturday's Brasilica night - "a funky mix of Brazilia, Agfro-Cuban rhythms and Latino House," says the publicity. For the rest of the week he's at home in his kitchen mixing funky cakes. And very nice they are, too.
But first we've got to get through the tapas, which, after all, Cubana is famous for. And its music and atmosphere. "Ambience in spades," I enthused when the place opened up and when it recently celebrated its sixth birthday we thought we'd take another look.
"Perhaps not on Friday night when it could be loud," said my wife so we opted for Wednesday. We need not have worried. The music here, live and recorded, is well-modulated.
"People can talk over their food. There's no point in going for a meal and not being able to socialise. The musicians are trained to play at a certain level, " says owner Adrian Bagnoli, a sensible chap.
It's live on Mondays and Tuesdays and recorded after that. On Fridays and Saturdays there are two sittings then the tables are pushed back for the equivalent of a Latin hoe down.
Cubana is done out inthe style of a bar you might find in Old Havana with plenty of atmospheric pictures, a mural on one wall (slides are projected on another some nights), a wooden floor which has taken some hammering and roomy tables.
The staff are friendly and, like head chef Fabian Cruz, who has been there from the beginning, tend to stay around. "People come here to see them," says Adrian.
I suspect they also come for the tapas, a mix of Spanish, Portuguese and South American dishes which strike us as very good.
They weren't at all bad when it opened - I was amused that almost everything had a sauce, even the sauces - but by now the kitchen has obviously got into a rhythm all of its own.
We ordered eight, far too much for two, judging by the portions, but we did have to do research.
Simple things like the olive oil heavy garlic bread (£2.25) impressed - "I could eat this for ages," said my wife - before we got on to the weightier stuff.
The meatballs, firm and meaty (£4.65) are a popular order, wafting great gusts of cumin everywhere. And the feijoada (£4.95), a pork, bacon and chorizo stew was given great piquancy by the addition of salty black beans.
It's best to start with the quieter flavours. Croquetos de verduras (£4.25), batter clad balls of red pepper and spinach was a new one on me and I'm not sure whether it really worked.
The merluza salsa sambuca (£5.25), a fish stew of hake, mussels, prawns and vegetables - loved the leeks - in a white wine and cream sauce which would have made Rick Stein happy.
We also enjoyed the tasty king prawns in oil, garlic and white wine for £5.65 but why do things come in threes for two people?
But what I couldn't stop eating was the squid (£4.75), simply but superbly cooked, crispy and slightly salty outside with a soft exterior.
I didn't rate the patatas bravas (£2.45) which seemed slightly dull but my wife did.
After all those tapas we feared it would be an effort to eat Mark's desserts (£3.95 each) but they were very impressive: a very moist organic lemon and almond polenta cake with pistachio and an alcoholic rum-soaked raisin and banana and coconut cake.
The textures were pleasantly dense without being heavy and neither needed the cream offered.
With a couple of Latin beers (£3.30 each) and two coffees (£1.50) we pushed the boat out a bit. The bill came to £51.90 but well worth it for the meal and atmosphere.
The coffees here are not the best but that doesn't stop Cubana earning a well-deserved five stars for food, although service loses one because we kept being touted for drinks. The menu has changed since our visit.

CUBANA 34 Trippet Lane, Sheffield.
Tel: 0114 276 0475.
Open Mon-Sat 5-midnight (1am Fri and Sat) Smoking allowed. Music. Credit cards. Disabled access and toilets.
Website: www.cubanatapasbar.co.uk
My ratings (out of five)
Food 5
Atmosphere 5
Service 5
Value 5
Bistro category. Do not compare ratings between places of different style or price.

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  • Last Updated: 10 January 2007 8:38 AM
  • Source: n/a
  • Location: Sheffield
 
 

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