I ring to book. The girl on the phone says she can fit us in if we come at 7.25pm. "We've got a large party coming in at half past so you can get your order in first," she says.

The Bohemian is a dinky little cafe cum bistro – estate agents would call it bijou – with a bright yellow frontage offering food, drink and enlightenment, next door to a sex shop.

It is run by two brothers, Camran and Imran Munir, as a veggie and vegan eaterie with added fish. It seats no more than 30.

It has a big blackboard menu with the same dishes all day. In the evening the candles come out and people can bring a bottle of wine and enjoy some friendly food and possibly some enlightenment at a very reasonable price.

One look at the blackboard shows that two years and inflation have taken their toll but, even so, a main course of grilled marlin with tomato salsa or chickpea goulash still comes in for under a tenner.

The table of 10 has suddenly become a 12 and head chef Jonathan Cummings is off, leaving apprentices Tommy and Harry in charge, with Camran popping into the kitchen to keep an eye on things.

By eight o'clock the place is full. Although it's small, there are an awful lot of other restaurants in the city which would love the same problem on a rainy Wednesday night.

Camran must have made a phone call because halfway through our main course Imran arrives in what looks like his motorbike leathers, accelerates upstairs to change, and is in the kitchen before you can say butternut squash soup.

Which is what I'm having for starters. It's a good, thick, sweetish, comforting autumnal soup with a couple of slices of what tastes like onion seed bread and worth £3.90 of anyone's money.

My wife has gone top whack in the starters at £5.10 for four or five juicy scallops flavoured with lime and ginger. I don't know how they do it for the price.

Her main course of goats cheese risotto with fennel and chilli (£7.80) is also very pleasing.

You might argue that it could be a little more cheesy and have a tincy bit more chilli zing but it's good stuff.

As is my filo parcel of puy lentils with roast vegetables (£7.70). It might not sound great but those lentils have an almost meaty mouthfeel and I'm impressed by the tomato and basil sauce which comes with it.

We also get a side dish of stir-fried julienned vegetables and, what with the plated salad, I'm already bursting at the seams.

The Bohemian is a neighbourhood cafe in more ways than one. The Munir brothers have at least three local ladies who supply them with desserts.
"Even if someone just does one thing well it's worth having," says Camran afterwards and he's right.

My apple crumble has a firm crunchy, oaty top, plenty of apple and more than a hint of cinnamon. Our waitress is keen to tell me it is organic and vegan. It comes with a little jug of custard which probably isn't.
Across the table my wife is enjoying a well flavoured dark chocolate and lime cheesecake. Together they cost £6.

Over a couple of excellent coffees Camran tells us that he's had to put prices up but it hasn't stopped people coming in.

The bill is £33.40 and the Bohemian heroically still doesn't charge corkage even though the empty bottles cost them money to throw away.
Despite inflation, this little eaterie is still a bargain and quite an experience.

Food review:

The Bohemian
53 Chesterfield Road, Sheffield.
Closed Mon. Open Tue-Sat 10am-10pm, Sun 10am-4pm. Cash or cheques only. BYO (no corkage). Music.
Street parking.
My star ratings (out of five):
Food ****
Atmosphere *****
Service *****
Value ****
Bistro category. Do not compare ratings between places of different style or price.




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