Tuck into Durham's treasures
LIKE Sheffield, Durham is reputedly built on seven hills. And with eight bridges crossing into the centre of this historic and compact city, it's not difficult to find a vantage point offering magnificent views.
The most prominent sight to be seen on arrival is of the cathedral and castle – situated close to each other, they proudly dominate the skyline as they overlook the rest of the city.
Dating back to the 11th century, they are easily the best known attractions in Durham but as I discovered, the city has plenty more to offer the visitor looking for a relaxing short break away – little wonder it was voted 'Favourite UK City' in 2007.
The River Wear winds its way around Durham and pretty much circles the city – hence so many bridges to get in and out – and it was with a short riverside walk that we started our climb towards the cathedral.
Founded in 1093, and a shrine to St Cuthbert, it is described as being one of the finest Norman buildings in the world and retains almost all of its craftsmanship from those times. A climb up its tower and a tranquil stroll around its cloisters are recommended.
Split by the pleasant Palace Green, with a nearby tearoom, the cathedral, castle and immediate surroundings were among the first UNESCO World Heritage Sites. It's easy to see why. The castle is now part of the university and guided tours are worked around lecture timetables.
Working your way down narrow cobbled streets away from these iconic landmarks, you can see that little has changed in terms of structures in the city centre for the past 200 years. Shops, from independent specialists that are well worth browsing around to prominent high street names, have admirably had to adapt to fit in with Durham's heritage conservation so that their buildings are preserved.
At the centre of the peninsula formed by the Wear is the city's Market Square, home to both the outdoor and indoor markets – and from there you can set out in any direction to take a look around the city.
A look around the indoor market is enjoyable, particularly as its caf overlooks the stalls and serves hearty local fare. Most attractions in the city itself are within easy reach on foot. What's more, vehicle access to the city centre itself is limited so pedestrians really do rule the roost.
The city and its eateries pride themselves on locally-produced food. And it's clear they've got plenty to be proud of. From ox cheek, to fillet of beef, venison to boar, not forgetting the vegetables – everything we ate was locally produced and sourced.
Tasty highlights included The Gourmet Spot – offering a modern British fine dining experience and aiming for a Michelin star with its modern British menu. Elsewhere, Oldfields' boasts detailed profiles of its local suppliers to read on the table while you wait for your food to cook – even the beer's local.
As for Durham nightlife, the city boasts a number of enticing pubs and bars. There's even a champagne bar to revel in.
But it was the delights of the Victoria Inn, a short walk from the city centre, with its traditional unspoilt Grade II listed interior that drew me in for a pint (of Durham Brewery ale, naturally). It was well worth searching for.
On the subject of ale, it must have been my lucky weekend as I also managed to stumble upon the Hill Island microbrewery tucked away with some creative workshops behind the Market Hall – and it happened to be one of not many open weekends.
That we happened to be visiting on the same weekend as the Wear Valley Food Festival added to the impression the county could easily become entirely self-sufficient when it comes to nourishment. Situated in the grounds of nearby Auckland Castle – home of the Bishop of Durham – it was a great showcase for the region's produce.
After loading my stomach with some lunch washed down with a glass of stout (The Yard of Ale Brewing Company ), I loaded up my re-usable bag with some treats to take home – honey, wholegrain mustard, a bottle locally-brewed cola and a couple of bottles of ale (The Yard of Ale again) all made it back to Sheffield.
The Botanical Garden and Oriental Museum are a little further out of the city centre. A stroll through the garden with its trees and plants from the four corners of the world made for a lovely breather before heading back down to South Yorkshire feeling relaxed and like I'd had a most enjoyable break.
Factfile
Durham is an easy two-hour drive from South Yorkshire and just a few stops up the East Coast Mainline from Doncaster.
There are plenty of accommodation options – from hotels to self-catering. These include Farnley Tower, a four-star guest house situated in a Victorian residence built by a prominent Durham architect. (0191 375 0011; www.farnley-tower.co.uk).
The Gourmet Spot – the city's self-proclaimed finest and boldest restaurant – is beneath the Farnley Tower. (0191 384 6655; www.gourmet-spot.co.uk); and Oldfields, a city centre restaurant www.oldfieldsrestaurants.co.uk
For more information about Durham visit www.visitcountydurham.com
To find out more about TasteDurham – the county's own nationally accredited food quality mark which highlights places to experience the best local, seasonal and fresh produce visit www.tastedurham.co.uk
For more information about the Hill Island Microbrewery visit www.myspace.com/hillisland
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Saturday 26 May 2012
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