Perfect night's rest in Bedlam
SHEER Bedlam, my hotel in Edinburgh. Best night's sleep I've had in ages.
For character and originality, the Hotel du Vin & Bistro in Edinburgh is right on the money.
These days it's a serene, stylish haven of peace, in keeping with the grand and imposing city. But these lofty halls have seen torment and anguish over the centuries.
The building, begun in 1739, was designed to house the city's poor. Financed by church collections, taxes, donations and an annual benefit play, it housed almost 500 adults and 180 children.
Life within those walls went from bad to worse. The Poor House became better known as 'Bedlam', the lunatic asylum.
The poet Robert Ferguson was interned here suffering from depression. After a bad fall downstairs, which left him 'insensible', Ferguson died at Bedlam in 1774, aged 24.
His death prompted his doctor, Dr Andrew Duncan, to push for better care of mentally disturbed patients. A new asylum finally opened in 1813. By Victorian standards, conditions were excellent.
The building at Bristo Place in the Old Town - today facing the Bedlam Theatre - became a science laboratory in the World Wars, and then the Blood Donor Centre.
It was bought and tastefully converted by Hotel du Vin in 2007 and now features 47 bedrooms and suites, a bistro, events rooms, acclaimed wine cellar and whisky snug.
Much of the original brickwork and many of the old walls are visible today.
Now there's a hushed calm, with staff who have mastered the art of always being there to help but never intruding.
It's the ideal base from which to explore Scotland's magnificent capital, the UK's second most popular tourist venue after London.
With streets steeped in history and a thriving cultural scene, Edinburgh has the perfect balance between history and a bustling modern city.
The UNESCO World Heritage Site combines the medieval Old Town, the Georgian New Town and award-winning modern architecture, including the bold Scottish Parliament.
It's a joy to explore the mysterious winding streets, spooky closes, elegant terraces, and abundance of shops, pubs and restaurants.
For an invigorating blast of fresh air, climb the towering 900ft Arthur's Seat, a volcanic outcrop overlooking the city and the Firth of Forth.
There are marvellous walks along Salisbury Crags, gazing down at the Scottish Parliament building, Holyrood House and the royal park.
After all this splendour, a modern hotel would be an anti-climax.
That's where the Hotel du Vin scores.
My spacious suite, with original roof timbers, included a king-sized bed, huge antique-style bath and walk-in shower. Furniture and decor match the surroundings but there are all the mod cons the modern traveller expects, huge TV (and Sky) internet access, iPod dock and so on.
The atmospheric Bistro has service and cuisine to match. I tried a starter of Strathdon blue and garlic-baked mussels (6) piquant, but not overwhelming the flavour of the large, fleshy mussels.
My main course featured succulent Manchego-glazed sea scallops on a silky pea and ham veloute ((16.50) rich, satisfying and not too heavy.
For a more robust appetite, my son chose the haggis, neaps and tatties: glorious, rich and spicy, enough to fill a muscular student in his 20s.
If you can, try the Hotel du Vin. You'd be mad not to.
Factfile
Hotel du Vin & Bistro, 11 Bristo Place, Edinburgh EH1 1EZ, Call 0131 247 4900. Reservations: 0845 365 4438, Email Reservations.edinburgh@hotelduvin.com. Website www.hotelduvin.com
Room Rates: Standard 125; Superior 145: Studio 195; Junior Suite 245; Suite 295
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Friday 10 February 2012
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