Siena: History, sculpture, and James Bond...
Wandering through Siena's narrow, curving streets, down to the unique, shell shaped central square of the Campo is like taking a trip back in time to the Renaissance.
From Campo to Cathedral and city walls to St Catherine's Sanctuary, the Tuscan city which is home to the world's first ever bank and once vied for dominance with mighty Florence seems untouched by time.
For most of the day, you can wander about unmolested by traffic, which is almost completely banned apart from the early morning and part of the evening. Even the shops manage to be chic and modern without marring the historic ambience.
Siena owes its historic success to being on the pilgrim route that wound its way from Canterbury, through France and Italy to Rome.
That, and the fact that as the city grew, and built new defensive walls, the citizens built new homes up against the old walls instead of demolishing them and re-using the stone.
The pilgrims brought money, art and commerce and the result is the historic city you can see today.
The wealth spawned monumental buildings like the distinctive Palazzo Pubblico, whose soaring tower dominates the Campo and the Cathedral, with its fantastic marble floors and ornate 13th century pulpit, thought to be the first example of sculpture being used to tell a biblical story as a teaching aid for the untutored people of the time.
And the demands of the pilgrims also prompted the creation of the 11th century hospital opposite, which, 13 years after it treated its last patient, is now being turned into what promises to be a spectacular art gallery.
Siena's ancient character is also built on its historic Contrade – city districts which continue to provide charitable and community building ties and the foundations for the biannual internecine battle during which Renaissance Siena comes back to life – the crazy horse race called the Palio.
If you don't want to spend the €100 to €400 it costs to watch the three-lap race around the sand covered, brick paved Piazza del Campo and associated pre-and post race celebrations, then turning up a week late isn't a bad idea.
There's every chance that the victorious Contrada – the word signifies both territory and 'people' – with its flag- tossing pages in their medieval dress, will still be touring the city.
Siena is one of Italy's top visitor destinations, so it is pretty busy from May to October and likely to be particularly popular during the Palio – July 2 and August 16 – and from late August to late October, when the whole of the 12th century Cathedral's marble floor is exposed to view.
The city is quieter and cooler in March and April, which can be a good time to visit if you want to take your time soaking up the atmosphere and seeing the many sights.
You won't do the city justice in less than three or four days and there's also plenty to see and do outside Siena – which is in the heart of Tuscany's Chianti region.
For more information about the range of city, walking, cycling, horse riding, wine tasting and other holidays in the Siena region, visit the www.terresiena.it website.
Siena Factfile
One of the easiest and cheapest ways to get to Siena is to fly Ryanair to Pisa from East Midlands Airport and then take a train or bus from Pisa International Airport.
Ryanair is currently flying to Pisa on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, with an additional flight on Wednesdays from the start of April. Prices, including taxes, range from as little as 27.99. Log onto www.ryanair.com for more details and to book.
There are frequent trains from Pisa Airport to Siena. Details can be found on the state railways website, www.trenitalia.com.
There are two buses a day from Pisa Airport to Siena – at 11am and 5:30pm. For further information see http://www.trainspa.it/en/home.html
Hotels inside the city include the luxurious Grand Hotel Continental – built by Pope Alexander VII as a wedding gift for his niece and where Daniel Craig stayed when the latest Bond movie, Quantum of Solace, was being filmed in the city, and the Athena, a short walk from the centre, yet close enough to the city walls to have its own car park outside the controlled zone.
There are also a number of hotels in historic houses and former palaces inside the walls and more places to stay outside for people wanting to explore the Chianti region by car or bike, during their stay in Siena.
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Friday 10 February 2012
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