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TAKEAWAY TEST: Roman Fish Bar, Mexborough

I WAS once in Italy, discussing food with a group of the natives.

Italian cuisine was easy to identify ... pizza, pasta and a range of dishes you never fully appreciate until you get there.

But English eating seemed more tricky to pin down. That was until the words 'fish and chips!' came in animated exclamation from my azzurri host.

Fish and chips indeed - as English as Big Ben, driving rain or a solid forward-defensive stroke. If Albion is known for little else, it is a version of battered seafood and thin strips of deep-fried potato, although the latter element was originally introduced from the Americas. Never mind.

It's appropriate I'm talking Italian, for this is the Roman Fish Bar, although the name comes from its proximity to Roman Terrace, rather than legions of marauding centurions marching past the premises.

Haddock, chips and peas is classic fare and, in this case, top quality. This fish is white, meaty and large enough to overhang the plate. The chips are plentiful, well cooked and avoid being greasy. The peas - well, they taste like only peas from a proper chippie ever do.

I've also tried the cod.

Now, Europe has experienced a slight shortage of this seafaring favourite in recent years, meaning it has gone from staple diet to speciality. Over-fishing was the cause, although, thankfully, things are returning to normal.

Some establishments started to charge more for cod but here it is the same price, although the rarity means you might have to order one and wait for it to be fried.

This is no bad thing. The fish comes as fresh as could be and you get to watch the comic banter of the female staff, which at times puts a Victoria Wood script to shame.

Quality was the same as the haddock, although taste and texture are obviously different. In fact, I'd forgotten how good cod can be.

Thankfully, I didn't need reminding how great fish and chips can be.

Venue: Roman Fish Bar, Wath Road, Mexborough

Telephone: 01709 582444

Opening Hours: 11.30am-2pm and 4pm-11pm Monday to Wednesday, 11.30am-11pm Thursday to Saturday. Closed Sunday.

Parking: On Street

Delivery: Large factory and party orders

Atmosphere: Clean and tidy. Comedy capers among the staff will keep customers entertained

Range of menu: Plentiful, with other favourites such as sausages, fish-cakes and onion rings. The kebabs may be too much for chippie puritans but are perhaps a business necessity in today's modern takeaway world.

What I had: Haddock, chips and peas, 5.70, with the same price for cod chips and peas How it tasted: No complaints

Verdict: The best of English

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