Famous paintings and battles from a War of the Roses
WHEN LS Lowry painted Manchester in the 1930s, he forged long-lasting perceptions of a city ingrained with industrial blackness.
No more so than the areas around Salford and Stretford, where his characteristic figures shuffled amid an urban landscape of grit and grime.
Lowry may still be the city's favourite artistic son but much has changed on the streets immortalised in his iconic images. The districts are now modern, with steel and glass replacing soot-coated brickwork, to create bold statements of architectural intent.
Salford Quays has experienced one of the city's greatest transformations, a seismic shift from industrial might to cultural cool.
Yet, it is here that Lowry finally comes home, in the eponymous gallery that houses a permanent collection of his work, alongside changing exhibitions by contemporary artists.
Adjacent cafes and restaurants are perfect watering holes for those making a day of their excursion, while the adjacent Lowry Outlet offers retail therapy for worshippers of the shopping-mall experience.
Close by, the Imperial War Museum North is a dramatic, sculptural structure of bold proportions.
Inside, the displays focus on the personal nature of conflict, aiming to replace stuffy, glass-case traditions with vibrant, interactive presentations.
Current main attraction is a major exhibition Captured: The Extraordinary Life Of Prisoners Of War, which uncovers the truths behind the legends immortalised in such films as The Great Escape and The Colditz Story.
In addition, one of the show's focal points is rare and fascinating archive footage of German and Italian PoWs, who were held in the 1,000-plus camps across this country.
I'm also in Manchester for conflict of a different kind, although one which has produced no less hostility down the years.
Yorkshire and Lancashire now only do battle on the cricket field, a welcome change from the marauding clashes during the War of the Roses.
Accommodation is the Old Trafford Lodge, which forms part of the red-county ground's extensive redevelopment.
And what a room. Draw back the curtains and the ground is in front of you, while a balcony terrace brings visitors even closer to the action. You could probably watch the game while lying on the bed, propped up by a couple of pillows, of course.
The day ended with a pleasant dinner at the Ramada Hotel and its swish Italian restaurant Stresa, which was just a short taxi ride from the ground. It was a perfect curtain call to a Mancunian stay that only had one downside ... the Tykes lost, badly.
To find out more about the range of cultural, leisure and retail activities available to the whole family at The Quays (including exclusive offers and accommodation) visit www.thequays.org.uk or call the Tourist Information Centre on 0870 420 4145
Old Trafford Lodge has 68 bedrooms, 36 of which have balconies overlooking the Old Trafford pitch. Prices start at 49, including free car parking and continental breakfast.
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Saturday 26 May 2012
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